- Time6h 10'
- Vertical rise1060 m
- Vertical descent1060 m
- Horizontal distance8,5 Km
- Type of journeyReturn
- Severity of the natural environment3
- Difficulty in movement5
- Amount of effort required3
An easy path leads from Larribet refuge (2072 m) to Batcrabère lakes (crossing with route 12 above the first lake). Heading southeast this obvious path borders round the right bank and heads up to Micoulaou lakes (crossing with route 35). Further on the rocky terrain makes the path somewhat less obvious, but the painted markings and the cairns mean we are able to follow it with difficulty until the base of the east crest of Palas, where the narrow Lavedán pass is located (2614 m).
This mountain pass is a narrow gap. We climb up the more vertical fist section to reach a wide cirque at the feet of the south face of Palas. The terrain here is a chaotic boulder field which is fairly arduous to cross. The painted markings lead towards Col de Palas and although they are less obvious at this point, they will serve as a guide on the first section from the pass. Following a gentle diagonal route, off the path, we have to head towards the west. Before dropping down too much (crossing with routes 09. 13 and 29), the walk bears north and faces the centre of the cirque, heading directly up the slope towards the base of the south face of Palas. We follow the markers over broken ground leading to a key feature of this ascent: Ledormeur chimney. We ignore the first chimney visible to the left and continue upwards to the foot of the rock face. We cross over some granite slabs and up a short vertical climb to reach the chimney. We start ascending the chimney but after climbing the first few metres we will see a short ledge leading to the foot of the Ledormeur chimney. There is a yellow sign at the base identifying it, a rappel anchor point and the red painted markings that will guide us all the way up the chimney.
There is an easy climb up this chimney with plenty of handholds, although because it is so vertical we do need to take care. Helmets are a must because of the risk of falling stones if there are people above you. We climb Ledormeur chimney to reach the divide at the top. A path opens up alternating on either side of the ridge on the grassy slope which takes us on an easy walk to a wide channel. We walk the last few metres on this path with some short simple climbs when the gorge narrows near the top. Scramble over the last few boulders to reach the summit of Palas peak (2970 m).
The way back is on the same route. Ropes are recommended for descending Ledormeur chimney, although it is viable without them. There are rappel anchoring points fitted in the rock. Helmets are compulsory on the way up and down the chimney.